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As belt buckle values have increased, the number of modern fakes and replicas entering the market also grew. Today, there are many known fakes that use designs from belt buckle manufacturers Tech Ether Guild, Baron Buckles (BBB), Bergamot Brass Works, and other companies. Click here to read Part I of this series on fake Tech Ether Guild belt buckles. Counterfeiters attempt to profit off of the commercial success of other companies and artists by stealing their designs and duping collectors. Despite being an illegal and unethical practice, I think these buckles have a place in the economic story of the belt buckle industry. As the old saying goes, "imitation is the sincerest form of flattery," and counterfeiters often target the highest quality and collectible belt buckles. Copyright Laws & Belt Buckle Artwork You may notice a copyright mark "©" on a belt buckle near the name of the manufacturer or with an artist's signature. The U.S. Copyright Office says that a copyright is: "...a form of intellectual property law, protects original works of authorship including literary, dramatic, musical, and artistic works, such as poetry, novels, movies, songs, computer software, and architecture. Copyrights typically take effect as soon as artwork is created without requiring any registration or special paperwork. A trademark is similar to a copyright, but rather than protecting artwork, it protects a brand or logo. This means the artwork on belt buckles is protected by the artist and can't be legally copied or used by other companies without permission. However, many "fake" belt buckles that rip-off or copy designs will be manufactured in China or other countries that don't enforce U.S. copyright laws. Licensing & Counterfeits Belt buckles that feature copyrighted or trademarked material have to be produced with permission from the owner. Merchandise that uses content from movies, books, and musicians all has to be produced with permission of the owner, and usually some form of compensation like a royalty agreement. For example, the Basic Tool & Supply Co. (BTS), which began manufacturing belt buckles in the early 1970s, created a series of five unique belt buckles for the Star Wars franchise. They were sold on countertop displays like the one shown in the photo to the left. The photographs below shows an example of the licensed belt buckle with appropriate trademark and copyright markings. The reverse side of the belt buckles were marked with both the manufacturer's name and the (then) owner of the Star Wars franchise, 20th Century Fox. Here is an example of a fake Star Wars belt buckle (photographed below) that was reproduced without permission. Note that the reverse side of the fake has no markings and much weaker construction, with a thin loop and prong. The legitimate buckle is also marked solid brass while the fake is made from a plastic that is plated to look like metal. When held, the fakes are much lighter than the originals because the plastic is less dense than brass. Reproduction VS Fake Belt Buckles The word "reproduction" has a negative connotation, especially among collectors, and is sometimes incorrectly used as a substitute for the word "fake". A reproduction is different from a counterfeit because the manufacturer is either (1) the owner copyrighted material, (2) has permission of the copyright holder, or (3) the copyright has expired and the material became public domain. Reproductions are usually less valuable than originals, though, so it is still important to be skeptical. If you're shopping and uncertain about what you're buying, don't be afraid to ask the vendor any questions you might have about the age or authenticity. Want More?-- Follow us on Twitter -- ~Telling stories through belt buckles~ Trivia, Art History, Film & TV, Americana, Vintage Fashion, Hippies, Pop Culture, Cowboys, more... About the Author: Brock Lane has an MS in Applied economics and operates multiple shops on Etsy, eBay, and Shopify. He maintains an inventory of over 10,000 rare and unique belt buckles, leather belts, and other goods. He leverages his sales history and professional background to write about trends in online retail marketplaces. Brock is an eBay affiliate and earns commission from linked products & shops. Learn more at: www.beltbucklehistory.com Shop for vintage belt buckles on Brock's Etsy Shop or at Brock's eBay Store

As belt buckle values have increased, the number of modern fakes and replicas entering the market also grew. Today, there are many known fakes that use designs from belt buckle manufacturers Tech Ether Guild, Baron Buckles (BBB), Bergamot Brass Works, and other companies. In this article, I provide photographs of the fakes that I have encountered and also give tips on how to recognize them. Counterfeiters attempt to profit off of the commercial success of other companies and artists by stealing their designs and duping collectors. Despite being an illegal and unethical practice, I think these buckles have a place in the economic story of the belt buckle industry. As the old saying goes, "imitation is the sincerest form of flattery," and counterfeiters often target the highest quality collectible belt buckles. Tech Ether Guild Fakes (examples) 1. "Infinity Hub" Design Counterfeiter: Unknown Material: plastic with brassy plating Identifying characteristics: The "Infinity Hub" fakes are light-weight and low density compared to real brass and are probably made from a composite mixture of plastic and metal. The color and finish of an authentic Tech Ether Guild or Banshee Brass buckle has a reddish hue and glossy, uniform surface. The photograph below compares a bootleg version of the "Infinity Hub" buckle (top row) to an authentic one (bottom row). The bootleg versions were manufactured in 2000-2001 by a designer clothing company called the Hollywood Trading Company (HTC). The authentic buckle in this comparison happens to be a marked/signed early casting by Jesse Mcleod of Banshee Brass; however, some authentic buckles have no markings on the backside. The unmarked versions are later castings that done by Tech Ether Guild. 3. "Mandrae" & "Persian Star" Designs Counterfeiter: unknown, possibly made in Korea Material: Brass Identifying characteristics: I've seen several examples of buckles that are made of solid brass that imitate the early Tech Ether Guild & Banshee Brass (Jesse Mcleod) designs. The quality of the brass is lower and has a different composition that causes the color and finish to be different from the authentic buckles. They tend to have a rough and unfinished feel with a lighter color than the real ones. Tech Ether Guild's blend of brass used more copper than other foundries, which gives the authentic buckles a glossy, reddish hue (see photo below, bottom row). The fakes have weaker construction with a loop that is thinner and blackish in color because it was not thoroughly buffed and polished. It is also marked "solid brass" where the authentic version is not. 2. "Bristlecone Pine" Design Counterfeiter: Lucky Brand clothing co. Material: Brass Identifying characteristics: The relief area of the buckle is empty or "cutout" in the background behind the tree's branches (left photo). Also, the loop has sharp angles on the fake compared to the smooth and rounded corners on the authentic buckle. 3. "Echo" Design Counterfeiter: Unknown Material: Metal Identifying characteristics: The backside of the fake buckle (top) has no markings and is polished to a high shine finish and are being sold as authentic 1970s buckles on Etsy. The authentic Tech Ether Guild "Echo" buckle (bottom) will be marked by the company and show the name of the design on the backside. How to recognize a fake In my experience as an eBay and Etsy reseller, I've come across several examples of fake Tech Ether Guild buckles. As you might suspect, they're nearly worthless compared to the real thing... but instead of throwing them away, I've collected and photographed them to spread awareness. There are some telltale signs you can look for that might help you avoid getting fooled. If you're shopping online, you don't have the advantage of being able to touch and inspect the piece, so it may be more difficult to tell if the buckle you're looking at is a fake. But you may be able to ask the seller some questions based on these tips. Here are a few of the things I look for when trying to spot a fake: Material - Most counterfeiters won't go through the effort of making a perfect copy. They will use inferior materials like plastics made to look like aged brass, or "pot metal" over high quality solid brass. Variations in design or pattern - Sometimes a counterfeiter will take creative liberties and slightly modify the design. Try finding a photo of the buckle from another vendor or website and use it as a comparison. If you see major differences in the design... you may be looking at a fake. No markings or signature - Sometimes the counterfeiter will do a great job copying the design on the front of a belt buckle, but then forget to replicate the backside. The back of original belt buckles will often have artist signatures or information about the design and company. Fakes may not have these markings on the backside, and can be an indication of a forgery. Coming in Next Week's Blog: Fakes and Forgeries Part II! I continue the discussion and review of fake belt buckles by reviewing legitimate replicas and reproductions, licensing agreements, and countries that don't respect U.S Copyright laws. Want More?-- Follow us on Twitter -- ~Telling stories through belt buckles~ Trivia, Art History, Film & TV, Americana, Vintage Fashion, Hippies, Pop Culture, Cowboys, more... About the Author: Brock Lane has an MS in Applied economics and operates multiple shops on Etsy, eBay, and Shopify. He maintains an inventory of over 10,000 rare and unique belt buckles, leather belts, and other goods. He leverages his sales history and professional background to write about trends in online retail marketplaces. Brock is an eBay affiliate and earns commission from linked products & shops. Learn more at: www.beltbucklehistory.com Shop for vintage belt buckles on Brock's Etsy Shop or at Brock's eBay Store

Summary: In the 1960s and 70s there was massive scheme where thousands of fraudulent belt buckles were manufactured and imported into the United States, where they were bought by unsuspecting antique collectors. They infringed on the registered trademarks of companies like Coca Cola, Wells Fargo, American Express, Winchester, Ford, and their aged appearance led people to believe they originated from the late 1800s. Many of the buckles had intricate hallmarks from reputable manufacturers, including: Tiffany & Company / Tiffany Studio, Deane & Adams, Gaylord Express / E. Gaylord, Anson Mills, and other company names. The reality is that the belt buckles were manufactured in the 60s and 70s and fraudulently sold to dealers and collectors as "rare antiques". These belt buckles have been exposed numerous times in articles from Basically Buckles: The original buckle collector magazine, Reader's Digest, and other publications. But even after 50 years, these fakes continue to dupe collectors and sellers. An Englishman, John Fairchild, was ultimately revealed as the source of the Tiffany buckles. Several companies filed lawsuits against the English manufacturer and the U.S. Customs and Border Protection Agency ultimately intervened in the matter. They impounded some import shipments of the buckles and prevented John Fairchild from entering the United States, but by then the Tiffany buckle craze had already taken hold. American companies began producing copies of the Tiffany belt buckles in varying styles. Some of the early copiers included Michael Richter, Daniel Baughman of Bergamot Brass Works, the Lewis Buckle Co, and MM Limited (now Great American Products). Today, there are so many versions of the Tiffany designs that it is nearly impossible to know exactly who produced which belt buckle. There were multiple castings of buckles by John Fairchild, American-made copies of Fairchild's designs, and then 2nd and 3rd generation copies of the American-made buckles. The only thing that is certain is that none of these buckles were made by Tiffany Studios and none are older than the 1960s. How It All Started In the late 60s and early 70s, rare and unusual belt buckles began turning up in pawn shops, gun shows, and flea markets. On the front, the buckles were adorned with original artwork and names of household brands such as Coca Cola, American Express, and Wells Fargo. Frantic collectors were buying them up at prices as high as $200 in the mid-60s and early 70s—a hefty price tag equivalent to about $1,300 in today’s dollars (1970 to 2021 dollars). The origins of these buckles remained mysterious and suspicious. A collector’s guidebook Tiffany & Gaylord Express & Exhibition Belt Plates, by Percy Seibert, began circulating among dealers and collectors in the early 70s. This 90-page hardbound publication was illustrated with photographs of many of the belt buckles in question along with a discussion of historical context and other documentation, such as photographs of belt buckle casting molds. Unbeknownst to collectors, the entire book and its contents were an intricate lie, maliciously constructed to fool unsuspecting buyers. The guidebook’s author, publisher, and “historical information”, were all fabricated as part of an elaborate scheme to help sell fake belt buckles... of which, there were now tens of thousands in circulation. The books were circulated among antique collectors and pawn shops and helped to grow the demand for the buckles J. Duncan Campbell's Investigation The scheme behind the faked buckles began to unravel in the early 1970s when J. Duncan Campbell, an advisor to the Smithsonian Institute and expert in historical belt plates, purchased a copy of Tiffany & Gaylord Express & Exhibition Belt Plates. To his surprise, the book contained writing plagiarized from Campbell’s own works for the Smithsonian. He documented his findings in his own book in 1973, titled New Belt Buckles of the Old West. ​ Excerpt from New Belt Buckles of the Old West PLAGIARISM & THE NON-EXISTENT COPYRIGHT After careful study of Percy Seibert’s book I made a decision to spend all the research time necessary to document the truth and expose much that is false and misleading in its content. Several reasons compelled me to annotate the text and shed some light on these new buckles, but one is of personal importance. In the book’s very first pages I was amazed to read sentences and paragraphs precisely as I had written them in the Smithsonian Bulletin 235 (American Military Insignia) which I co-authored with Edgar M. Howell… Next, I noticed a copyright date of 1950, using words I had not written until 1962. This was a surprise that proves the book must have been written some time after the Smithsonian Bulletin appeared in 1963. [2] New Belt Buckles of the Old West J. Duncan Campbell P. IX Campbell meticulously studied Percy Seibert's book and explained how many of the Tiffany buckles had historical inaccuracies or impossibilities that showed they were fake. Campbell published an update to his investigation in Early American Life magazine, titled "The Great Belt Buckle Fraud" (1974). In the article, he described purchasing one of the fake buckles directly from a supplier in London, England called P. Supplies Co. His check was endorsed by none other than John R. Fairchild, Jr. He also obtained a catalog from the Deane & Adams company which noted it was a member of the Fairchild Organization. Basically Buckles Magazine Basically Buckles (previously Buckle Buddies) ran numerous articles on the Tiffany buckles throughout the 1980s. Readers and subscribers frequently mailed in letters to the editor asking about the origin of the Tiffany buckles they had acquired. Most issues featured a reply from collector and writer, Bob Bracken, softly breaking the bad news that the infamous Tiffany buckles were not authentic antiques. Basically Buckles also ran an article written by a former dealer of the original Tiffany buckles, Michael Richter, whose firsthand experience led him to purchase them wholesale from the supplier in England. He ordered the buckles directly from John Fairchild by the hundreds, and then resold them to eager buyers in the U.S. The rumors surrounding the origins Tiffany buckles were wild and fantastic. There were claims that the buckles had been gathered up during scrap metal drives during WWI so that the brass could be melted down and used for bullet casings. The lucky buckles that had been allegedly "spared" were being offered up to collectors. Some of the buckles also had inscriptions claiming they had been cast from captured military cannons. The peculiar stories generated hype and urgency that fueled demand for the buckles. Dealers were rushed to place their orders before supplies ran out. Reader's Digest also published an article titled "Scourge of the Smugglers", which discussed the Tiffany buckles. Soon after, American companies whose names were being used on the buckles filed lawsuits against Fairchild. When U.S. Customs intervened, Michael Richter's shipments were detained until he agreed to mark each one "Made in England" on the reverse side. Richter wrote: "Even on my final shipment the Englishman [John Fairchild] never admitted that I was involved in a hoax. While I assumed that the Reader's Digest article would destroy any interest in these buckles, it only seemed to further enhance the desirability of the Tiffany buckles." "Tiffany Revisited" by Michael Richter Basically Buckles, September 1981 Copies of Copies Even after the Tiffany buckles were no longer available from England, Richter and many others started making copies of the buckles. Daniel Baughman, the owner and artist behind prominent belt buckle manufacturer Bergamot Brass Works, met John Fairchild on a business trip to England in 1973. He too, was was convinced that the buckles had been recently produced and were, in fact, not relics of the 1800s. He suspected the buckles were oxidized or chemically treated to give an aged or antique appearance. Like Richter, Baughman copied many of the Fairchild designs and began producing his own buckles in Wisconsin in the early 70s. Other companies including the Lewis Buckle Co and MM Limited (now Great American Products) also started out by producing copies of the Fairchild buckles before developing their own designs. To make matters even more complicated... later companies produced 2nd and 3rd generation copies of the American-made "Tiffany" designs. In the end, it became nearly impossible to know the origin of any one particular belt buckle. The hype and mystery surrounding the Tiffany buckle gave birth to a legitimate industry, but unsuspecting collectors continue to be fooled by the scheme which started more than 40 years ago. It was rumored that John Fairchild gave his belt buckle business over to his sister and her husband who started produced legitimate belt buckles, much like the competing companies they had inspired in the United States. Want More?-- Follow us on Twitter -- ~Telling stories through belt buckles~ Trivia, Art History, Film & TV, Americana, Vintage Fashion, Hippies, Pop Culture, Cowboys, more... About the Author: Brock Lane has an MS in Applied economics and operates multiple shops on Etsy, eBay, and Shopify. He maintains an inventory of over 10,000 rare and unique belt buckles, leather belts, and other goods. He leverages his sales history and professional background to write about trends in online retail marketplaces. Brock is an eBay affiliate and earns commission from linked products & shops. Learn more at: www.beltbucklehistory.com Shop for vintage belt buckles on Brock's Etsy Shop or at Brock's eBay Store

Summary: Manufacturer/Artist: Award Design Medals Status: Defunct Location: Noble, Oklahoma Related companies: None Style and Themes: The company produced a huge variety of Commemorative and Limited Edition belt buckle series in addition to retail and some corporate designs. They produced multiple series of US State commemorative buckles and were also involved in the design and distribution of the Hesston NFR annual belt buckle release for several years. Visit my index of belt buckle manufacturers and artists to view belt buckle hallmarks, history, and other information Profile: Award Design Medals was founded by owner Wendell Hamilton and artist Bob Henderson in 1972. The company used the lost wax casting method to produce intricate and high quality solid brass belt buckles. They also offered limited production of buckles in solid sterling silver or brass plated in silver or gold. Many of the company's designs were inspired by the American frontier and featured figures and events from the wild west including cowboys, outlaws, historical firearms, and cattle and horse breeds. The company found success in creating limited edition series of belt buckles that were marketed to collectors in the 1980s through the Buckle Buddies magazine. Award Design Medals produced the Tony Lama commemorative series of belt buckles for each US State which gained notoriety after the State of North Dakota prevented them from using their state seal on the belt buckle. They were also actively involved in the production and release of buckles in the Hesston NFR annual belt buckle release for several years. History: Award Design Medals (ADM) was founded by owner Wendell Hamilton and artist Bob Henderson in 1972. The company grew quickly and had 40 employees by 1975, but was then tragically struck by a fire that destroyed its administrative and production facilities. The company managed to rebuild and was most active during the 1980s when it sold belt buckles for both wholesale and retail customers. Freelance artists and shop owners would commission orders from ADM to distribute independently, but the company also advertised and sold its original designs to buyers through mail order advertisements. The found success in creating limited edition and commemorative designs when belt buckle collecting gained traction in the 80s and helped fuel the popularity of belt buckle collecting clubs, swap meets, and publications like the Buckle Buddies magazine. The buckles were worn by many, but because many were sold into the collector market they had more intricate packaging that showed off the craftsmanship. The buckles were sealed with shrink wrapping and packaged in a velvet-textured plastic case like the one in the picture below. Wendell Hamilton's interest in the American Frontier led the company to produce belt buckles that featured historical people, places and events, especially those from the days of the wild west. They produced series of buckles featuring outlaws like Billy The Kid and the Dalton Gang, as well as adaptations of famous artwork including paintings from Frederick Remington. The casting methods used by ADM allowed them to produce intricate designs with high relief and impressive detail compared to their competitors. The buckles are nearly always marked on the reverse in fine lettering and with the company's logo. A small banner on the reverse will provide important details on the buckle including the material or a serial number if the buckle was part of a limited edition series. The number of buckles in a limited edition series varied between designs and who commissioned the order, but runs of 500, 1,000, or 2,000 were quite common. ADM also marked buckles as "first edition" during the initial production run of a new design. If the design was reused the first edition marking was removed from subsequent castings. Award Design Medals became involved with the annual Hesston National Finals Rodeo (NFR) belt buckle in 1982. They began by creating dies and finishing the buckles, but ultimately purchased the equipment from Hesston and took over full production in 1984. U.S. State Series Award Design Medals is well known for producing several collectible series of belt buckles commemorating each US State. The original limited edition series produced for Tony Lama in the early 1980s became highly collectible and publicized after the State of North Dakota prevented the company from using its state seal on the North Dakota belt buckle. A small, unknown quantity were completed and sold before North Dakota intervened, which caused prices to rise for the buckles that had been released. Even today, North Dakota 1st edition buckles will bring $300 to $450. They later created the Eagle State Seal Collection which commemorated each of the U.S. States, and also produced belt buckles for each U.S. state with original artwork and state's name represented in a large flowing banner across the front of the buckle. Want More?-- Follow us on Twitter -- ~Telling stories through belt buckles~ Trivia, Art History, Film & TV, Americana, Vintage Fashion, Hippies, Pop Culture, Cowboys, more... About the Author: Brock Lane has an MS in Applied economics and operates multiple shops on Etsy, eBay, and Shopify. He maintains an inventory of over 10,000 rare and unique belt buckles, leather belts, and other goods. He leverages his sales history and professional background to write about trends in online retail marketplaces. Brock is an eBay affiliate and earns commission from linked products & shops. Learn more at: www.beltbucklehistory.com Shop for vintage belt buckles on Brock's Etsy Shop or at Brock's eBay Store

Common Questions Addressed In This Article: What are Sterling Silver and Coin Silver? What is German Silver/Nickel Silver/Alpaca Silver? How do I test for silver? Including an overview of the acid scratch test, magnets, ice test, sound test, bleach staining, and metal analyzers. Summary Before you go through the effort of a formal silver test, take a moment to look over your belt buckle to look for hallmarks that might tell you what it's made from. If you still think it could be silver, you have a few options for how to test it. Use diagnostic tools like magnets, assessing the patina color, or the sound test. These tests are fast and easy, but can be inconclusive and challenging for a beginner. Buy an acid test kit to use at home. If you're testing jewelry on a regular basis, this is probably the way to go. Scratch the piece on a slate, apply acid, and look for the bright red color indicator. These kits are inexpensive at $15 or less and are available from Amazon or eBay. Take your jewelry to a pro for testing. This may be your best choice for a one-time inquiry. Businesses like pawn shops and jewelers will have metal analyzers that can precisely scan and measure metal purity in jewelry. If you plan to test silver on a regular basis, going to a jewelry shop will be inconvenient for you and the jeweler so consider buying an acid test kit. What are Sterling Silver and Coin Silver? Sterling silver is a blend of metals that will contain 92.5% of true silver. The remaining 7.5% is usually copper but can include silicon, germanium, boron, zinc, or other elements. Alone, silver is a soft metal that will easily scratch and wear away over time. The addition of copper and other metals makes sterling silver a much better material for casting jewelry like belt buckles that will be subject to the wear and tear of daily use. It helps to preserve the detail of any artwork and designs in the casting. You might hear the term coin silver, which also refers to a silver blend that has a slightly lower silver content of about 90%. It is a metal alloy that historically was used by the US government to mint silver coins, hence the term coin silver. What is German Silver/Nickel Silver/Alpaca Silver? These terms all refer to the same metal alloy made from copper, nickel and zinc. metals like German silver, nickel silver, and alpaca silver contain no actual elemental silver. The metal has a bright silver-tone luster that makes it very attractive for crafting jewelry and it has physical properties that make it relatively easy to melt, cast, forge, and engrave. It is also inexpensive to produce because it does not contain elemental silver, making it a common material for belt buckles. There are a huge number of terms used in the world of jewelry that can be confusing to a novice, so here are a few additional definitions: Gold or Silver "Wash" - the same thing as plating. An electro-plating process is used to create a thin layer of a precious or semi-precious metal over another metal. Markings may abbreviate as "GP" for gold plate TAXCO - A city in Mexico that is known for producing the Alpaca silver-style jewelry for the tourist and visitor markets. This includes belt buckles, bracelets, pendants, and hair barrettes. Hecho En Mexico - translates to Made In Mexico How do I test for silver? Look for Stamps and Hallmarks One of the easiest and fastest ways to find out if your belt buckle or other jewelry is silver, is to give the back side a close inspection for markings and stamps that might indicate what type of metal was used. Many belt buckles will have stamps to indicate the maker and type of metal, but some handmade pieces might also have writing that was engraved by hand and is difficult to read. I recommend having a small magnifying glass or jeweler's lens when you look because the marks can be very small, worn away, or obscured. The photographs below show some examples of stamps from belt buckles. The stamps may also include an artist's hallmark or year of manufacture. For sterling silver belt buckles, a markings that say "925" ".925" or "92.5" are often used as a substitute for the word sterling, and represents the 92.5% purity/silver content of the metal. Left Column: examples of stamps for sterling silver Right Column: examples of stamps for german silver, nickel silver, and alpaca silver If you find hallmarks and determine that your buckle does not have silver, you're done and there's no need to perform any more tests. But many belt buckles have no markings at all so you'll need to use an acid test or some other method. I also like to confirm the authenticity of any belt buckles or jewelry that are marked sterling. It doesn't happen very often, but you may find a fake that is marked "sterling" or "925" but is only silver plated, or made with another material altogether. Acid Scratch Test A practical way to know if your belt buckle is silver is to test it with a acid scratch testing kit. These kits might be intimidating if you've never used one, but they're simple and nearly foolproof. A standard kit comes with a slate for scratching and a small bottle of acid for silver. Some kits will come with several types of acid used for testing different metals like gold or platinum. To test for silver, you will also need a small piece of disposable paper towel or white cloth. 1. Rub the belt buckle on the slate to scratch off some of the metal. Apply pressure and make a smudge on the slate that is about the size of a pencil eraser. Choose a place on the buckle where you won't cause any damage, like the back or an edge. Don't use the prong or part of the loop where the belt attaches to the buckle. Even on a sterling silver buckle these pieces can be made from stronger metals like steel. 2. Dab acid over the smudge and allow it to sit for a few seconds. You only need to use enough to cover the metal streak. I like to wait about 30 seconds for the reaction to occur, and you may be able to see the red color appear on the slate. 3. Use a small piece of paper towel and firmly wipe away the smudge and acid from the slate. If the metal is sterling silver the acid will cause a chemical reaction that creates a red streak. If there is no color, the metal does not contain elemental silver. Sometimes it isn't practical to use an acid kit to test for silver. Maybe you're at a garage sale or a flea market and need to figure out what you're looking at. Here are a few other methods that can help to identify metals in belt buckles. Color Silver alloys tend to tarnish and oxidize differently from other metals, so color can be a helpful indicator if your belt buckle is not marked. The photo to the left shows examples of sterling and nickel silver belt buckles. Sterling and coin silver jewelry develops a very dark oxidation (aka patina) that eventually becomes black. The pattern will often be cloudy and mottled over the entire surface. Remember that hardware on the back of the buckle—like the hinges, loop, and prong—are usually made from a stronger material like steel so they may rust over time. German/nickel/Alpaca silvers will usually develop a tarnish that more closely resembles the rust that you would see on iron or steel. The photograph on the left (bottom) shows several spots where the nickel silver belt buckle has rust colored spots. Color can be a helpful indicator when identifying different metals, but it can be difficult for an inexperienced eye to distinguish between silver and other materials. Old belt buckles that have been cleaned with chemicals or polishes will also have unusual or deceptive colors, so be careful and use more than one identification method. Over time, silver will naturally oxidize and develop a dark layer of tarnish that is called a patina. This is not necessarily a bad thing, and most collectors will prefer that old jewelry have its original patina. Cleaning a silver belt buckle or other jewelry can actually hurt the value of the piece. For more information, read my post on cleaning belt buckles. Magnet Test Elemental silver is very weakly magnetic and a magnet will not stick to it, but silver plated belt buckles will sometimes have a magnetic steel core. So, a small handheld magnet can be a helpful diagnostic tool for belt buckles and other jewelry. If you're regularly going to estate sales and flea markets, it might be worthwhile to take a small neodymium magnet with you. Just be careful about putting one on a keyring or in your pocket because they can cause damage to nearby electronics like your phone! Don't forget, hardware on the back of a sterling silver buckle might be magnetic because it is made from steel. I've also found that some stone cabochons are magnetic or that artists with use small steel plates behind stones for construction/design purposes. They may not be visible upon inspection, but a magnet will reveal them. A magnet is not a substitute for a true silver test, though, because brass, german silver, nickel silver, and alpaca silver are also nonmagnetic. Sound Test Silver can also be identified by a distinctive ringing sound that it makes when struck. I tend to avoid this method with belt buckles to avoid damaging them, but it can be an effective test. It's used more frequently with coins where they can be dropped on a hard surface or tapped against each other to listen for a sound that is reminiscent of a ringing bell. Other tests The ice test is common when testing bars of silver or large coins. Silver has a high thermal conductivity which means it transfers heat quickly, so if you place an ice cube on a silver bar it will start to melt almost immediately. This method is not practical for intricate pieces of jewelry that are small, thin and irregular in shape, or lightweight so I tend not to use it. Another common test is to use bleach to tarnish the silver. It accelerates the natural oxidation process and will quickly tell you have silver. I don't recommend this method for jewelry either because it will permanently discolor the piece wherever the bleach is applied. Get Professional Help If you've tried to figure out if your buckle is silver but you're still not sure, you may want to get help from a pro. You can try taking your piece to a jeweler and ask them to perform a test for you. Many jewelers will have a metal analyzer that measures the electromagnetic properties of the jewelry to tell precisely what it is made from. These machines are expensive ($1,000 or more) and not practical for most people to purchase for at-home use, but they are common at businesses that process a lot of jewelry. The test is quick and easy, and many business owners will be happy to help. Want More?-- Follow us on Twitter -- ~Telling stories through belt buckles~ Trivia, Art History, Film & TV, Americana, Vintage Fashion, Hippies, Pop Culture, Cowboys, more... About the Author: Brock Lane has an MS in Applied economics and operates multiple shops on Etsy, eBay, and Shopify. He maintains an inventory of over 10,000 rare and unique belt buckles, leather belts, and other goods. He leverages his sales history and professional background to write about trends in online retail marketplaces. Brock is an eBay affiliate and earns commission from linked products & shops. Learn more at: www.beltbucklehistory.com Shop for vintage belt buckles on Brock's Etsy Shop or at Brock's eBay Store

Summary: Manufacturer/Artist: Anacortes Brass Works Status: Active (as Northwest Brass Works) Location: Washington State Related companies: Northwest Brass Works Style and Themes: Produced solid brass buckles starting in 1970. Many retail designs had coastal pacific-northwest themed artwork like whales or forests. The company also did custom corporate designs, especially for the construction and oil & gas industries. Visit my index of belt buckle manufacturers and artists to view belt buckle hallmarks, history, and other information Profile: Anacortes Brass Works was founded in 1970 by Glen Veal and Kit Marcinko while they were living on Guemes Island, WA. The foundry was located in Anacortes, WA. The buckles were cast in solid brass and were among the highest quality buckles produced in the 70s and 80s. Many of the earliest designs were nature-inspired and featured artwork with whales, coastal birds, and other wildlife. The company also produced many custom corporate designs for companies in construction, oil & gas, and other industries. Collectors will commonly encounter buckles that commemorate the completion of construction projects, safety awards, and other corporate achievements. The foundry was also strategically located to produce buckles during Alaska's oil boom in the early 80s associated with the Trans-Alaska pipeline. The "Buckles of Alaska" series was popular with business owners who offered souvenirs to visitors, and the designs featured Native Alaskan totem-style artwork, dog sledding, and gold prospecting. History: Anacortes Brass Works was founded in 1970 by Glen Veal and Kit Marcinko while they were living on Guemes Island, WA. The buckles were cast using antique equipment at a old foundry from 1926, which is featured on the info cards packaged with their belt buckles. The buckles were cast in solid brass, hand polished, and were among the highest quality buckles produced in the 1970s and 1980s. The cards packaged with each buckle described the company's history and intricate manufacturing process. An image of two craftsmen pouring molten metal appears to serve as the company logo. Anacortes Brass Works belt buckles can be easily identified by looking on the reverse side for a stamp which included a date and the company name. The details of the stamp vary depending on age. The oldest buckles (1975 and earlier) may be signed by Kit Marcinko, and have the company name and date cast large letters across the back (photographed below). Later buckles were marked with a small round stamp that also included the place of manufacturing (Washington) and the material (solid brass). The stamp hallmark first appears in 1975 (photographed below, top left) and is the only example with raised lettering. The stamp used in the late 70s onward had imprinted lettering. The example on the upper right also has an image of the foundry building with a crucible pouring molten metal suspended above it. In the early 80s the company created a "Buckles of Alaska" series with a unique stamp that had the silhouette of the state of Alaska (bottom left). Stamp hallmarks for other buckles in the 80s and later had no figural images (bottom right). Many of the earliest designs were nature-inspired and featured whales, coastal birds, and other wildlife. The company's geographic location had a clear impact on the artwork which depicted life in the Pacific Northwest with scenes of commercial fishing, coniferous forests, and marine animals. The company also produced many custom corporate designs for companies in construction, oil & gas, and other industries. Collectors will commonly encounter buckles that commemorate the completion of construction projects, safety awards, and other corporate achievements. Kit Marcinko sold his half of the company in 1980, but the foundry continued to produce buckles into the 80s and 90s. Today, Northwest Brass Works of Mt. Vernon Washington produces modern castings of several of the Anacortes Brass Works designs. They also have a variety of new buckle designs offered in solid brass and silver brass. The details of the change in ownership and company name are not known. Want More?-- Follow us on Twitter -- ~Telling stories through belt buckles~ Trivia, Art History, Film & TV, Americana, Vintage Fashion, Hippies, Pop Culture, Cowboys, more... About the Author: Brock Lane has an MS in Applied economics and operates multiple shops on Etsy, eBay, and Shopify. He maintains an inventory of over 10,000 rare and unique belt buckles, leather belts, and other goods. He leverages his sales history and professional background to write about trends in online retail marketplaces. Brock is an eBay affiliate and earns commission from linked products & shops. Learn more at: www.beltbucklehistory.com Shop for vintage belt buckles on Brock's Etsy Shop or at Brock's eBay Store

Summary: Manufacturer/Artist: Lewis Buckle Co., Inc. Status: Defunct. Company was acquired in the early 1980s. Location: Palantine/Chicago, IL Related companies: Great American Products (buyout) Style and Themes: Produced early copies of "Tiffany" buckles and then developed several series of original designs, also produced corporate designs. Visit my index of belt buckle manufacturers and artists to view belt buckle hallmarks, history, and other information Profile: The Lewis Buckle Co. was an early commercial manufacturer of modern bar-and-pin belt buckles in the United States. They began by producing reproductions of the Tiffany style buckles from the late 60s and early 70s, but quickly developed their own designs and business strategy. The buckles were plated with either brass or pewter over a dense alloy (likely pewter) with high relief designs in a variety of styles including hippie culture, Americana, the old west, consumer product brands, and custom corporate designs. Like many other buckle makers, they designed and produced a buckle series with original artwork that commemorated statehood for each of the U.S. states. Production under the Lewis name ceased when the company was acquired by rival belt buckle manufacturer, Great American Products, in the early 1980s. History: Lewis Buckle Co. belt buckles were sold through a variety of channels including mail order advertisements in newspapers and magazines, as well as sales catalogs. Many of the early designs, including the Winchester and Colt Revolvers buckles pictured below in the magazine ad, were reproductions of "Tiffany" designs from the late 60s and early 70s. (For more information on Tiffany style buckles visit my belt buckle history pages). For $5 you have a belt buckle mailed to you and show your support for the 2nd Amendment. The "Tiffany" reproduction buckles were internally dubbed Series 100 by Lewis Buckle Co. and represented only a portion of their offering of about 200 designs in 1975. In total, there were five unique series: Series 100 (Tiffany reproductions): Coca Cola designs, cigarette paper brands, Harley Davidson, antique automobiles, old west & Americana Series 200 (alcohol brands): Heileman's Old Style Beer, Budweiser, Hennessy, Hamm's Beer, Miller, Olympia, & more Series 300 (miscellaneous original designs): Various uncategorized original designs Series 400 (U.S. State series): One buckle for each U.S. State with the date of statehood, original artwork Series 500 (Railroads): Burlington, Santa Fe, Union Pacific, Frisco, & more The company also created retail sales channels by offering store displays and "blister pack" shrink wrap packaging for an additional fee. The wholesale prices for Lewis Buckle Co. belt buckles in 1975 ranged from $1.60 to $2.35/ea. depending on quantity. The retail prices would have been $4 to $5, which is roughly equivalent to $20 to $25 in today's dollars after accounting for inflation. In addition to their original and retail designs, Lewis Buckle Co. offered leather belts and specialty design services for custom and corporate buckles. A sales catalog, ca. 1975, provides some limited information on company structure and management: The State Series was designed by Nancy Lewis and Mary Kale (Vice-President of Lewis Buckle Co., Inc. and owner of Kale Advertising, an L.B.Co. subsidiary). - Quote from Series 400 Section, pages not numbered My research on Nancy Lewis and Mary Kale has not yielded any additional information. You can contact me with additional information about the company and I'll update this post as needed. Want More?-- Follow us on Twitter -- ~Telling stories through belt buckles~ Trivia, Art History, Film & TV, Americana, Vintage Fashion, Hippies, Pop Culture, Cowboys, more... About the Author: Brock Lane has an MS in Applied economics and operates multiple shops on Etsy, eBay, and Shopify. He maintains an inventory of over 10,000 rare and unique belt buckles, leather belts, and other goods. He leverages his sales history and professional background to write about trends in online retail marketplaces. Brock is an eBay affiliate and earns commission from linked products & shops. Learn more at: www.beltbucklehistory.com Shop for vintage belt buckles on Brock's Etsy Shop or at Brock's eBay Store

Summary: Manufacturer/Artist: CDC Metalworks/Adezy Status: Defunct. Most active in the 1970s. Location: Colorado (Boulder and Denver) Suspected affiliate companies: Talcon Int'l Ind, Donahue Enterprises, Ultra Entertainment Inc, Spec-Cast, PPI, Chad Mfg Style and Themes: Designs frequently featured local Colorado cities, ski resorts, and businesses. Retail design buckles included a variety of animals, artistic hippie designs, and some novelty/gag humor. Visit my index of belt buckle manufacturers and artists to view belt buckle hallmarks, history, and other information Profile: During the mid and late 70s, Adezy produced numerous belt buckles in Denver, Colorado in both retail and custom designs. Many of the buckles were sold as souvenir items in tourist/visitor destinations in Colorado, so many of the buckles you find today will feature the names of ski resorts and small towns in the Colorado Rockies. The buckles were usually plated with brass but some had a silver-tone finish (likely chrome or nickel). The condition will vary dramatically between pieces depending on how frequently they were worn. Even those buckles which were not used will typically have heavy discoloration from aging. During the early 80s, Adezy produced a limited edition collector series of commemorative U.S. State belt buckles. Each one had a glossy silver-tone finish and a prominent Swarovski Crystal embedded on the face. They also made a series of buckles depicting different dog breeds, several humorous/joke designs, and a variety of artistic pieces. History: My belief is that Adezy originally produced buckles under the names C.D.C. Metalworks and C.D.C. Associates Inc in the early 1970s. The earliest known buckle from this maker is this one (photographed below) which apparently promoted the original "C.D.C Associates", a group made up of chemists, spectrographers, and assayers. It is not known how this company transitioned into commercially producing belt buckles, or what the abbreviation C.D.C. represents. It's difficult to read, but the banner on the backside says "Boulder Colorado" on the lower left (Adezy buckles are frequently marked "Denver Colorado" so the company may have relocated from Boulder to Denver in the early 70s). During the early 70s the company produced belt buckles that featured the names of Colorado cities, railroads, landmarks, and US states. The backside of these early buckles had a distinct weaved-ribbon pattern connecting the area between the loop and pin (photographed top row), and a lesser number had an arrowhead logo with a bighorn sheep ram (lower left). Most designs that I have encountered with these hallmarks were copyright dated 1975 or earlier. One late example of a C.D.C. belt buckle (photographed lower right) used a font that closely resembles the Adezy logo with the large curl protruding from the letter "M". This is the only example I've encountered with a copyright date later than 1975. I believe that C.D.C Metalworks underwent an major change in 1975 or 1976 and switched from using the C.D.C Metalworks name to Adezy. The similarity of design/construction of the C.D.C and Adezy belt buckles provides evidence that the companies are one in the same. The buckles always utilized a method of plating over a base metal with distinctively shaped 1 3/4" belt loops. The subject matter and artwork are also similar between the Adezy and C.D.C belt buckles, often featuring Colorado cities, ski resorts, and wildlife. Adezy (pronounced Ad-Easy) company was most active during the late 70s and early 80s, so most buckles you encounter will be from this period. A few buckles from 1979-1983 indicate another major transition may have occurred within the company. Several brass-plated designs—also produced in Colorado—used company names like Donahue Enterprises, Talcon International Industries Inc, Ultra Entertainment Industries Inc. (Paula Freed), and Spec-Cast. This interesting belt buckle (photographed right) shows the re-emergence of the weaved-ribbon pattern and is marked "Spec-Cast Denver, CO". It indicates a connection between Spec-Cast and the earlier company, C.D.C. Metalworks. A trademark search shows that Adezy was formed in 1975 and the trademark expired in 1986. Spec-Cast is still operating today and they produce die cast replica vehicles as well as belt buckles and lapel pins from Dyersville, Iowa. I've reached out to Spec-Cast to inquire about their company history but have not yet received a response. I will update this post if I learn anything new! Want More?-- Follow us on Twitter -- ~Telling stories through belt buckles~ Trivia, Art History, Film & TV, Americana, Vintage Fashion, Hippies, Pop Culture, Cowboys, more... About the Author: Brock Lane has an MS in Applied economics and operates multiple shops on Etsy, eBay, and Shopify. He maintains an inventory of over 10,000 rare and unique belt buckles, leather belts, and other goods. He leverages his sales history and professional background to write about trends in online retail marketplaces. Brock is an eBay affiliate and earns commission from linked products & shops. Learn more at: www.beltbucklehistory.com Shop for vintage belt buckles on Brock's Etsy Shop or at Brock's eBay Store